1,324 research outputs found

    Generation of undular bores in the shelves of slowly-varying solitary waves

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    We study the long-time evolution of the trailing shelves that form behind solitary waves moving through an inhomogeneous medium, within the framework of the variable-coefficient Korteweg-de Vries equation. We show that the nonlinear evolution of the shelf leads typically to the generation of an undular bore and an expansion fan, which form apart but start to overlap and nonlinearly interact after a certain time interval. The interaction zone expands with time and asymptotically as time goes to infinity occupies the whole perturbed region. Its oscillatory structure strongly depends on the sign of the inhomogeneity gradient of the variable background medium. We describe the nonlinear evolution of the shelves in terms of exact solutions to the KdV-Whitham equations with natural boundary conditions for the Riemann invariants. These analytic solutions, in particular, describe the generation of small "secondary" solitary waves in the trailing shelves, a process observed earlier in various numerical simulations

    Coupled Ostrovsky equations for internal waves in a shear flow

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    In the context of fluid flows, the coupled Ostrovsky equations arise when two distinct linear long wave modes have nearly coincident phase speeds in the presence of background rotation. In this paper, nonlinear waves in a stratified fluid in the presence of shear flow are investigated both analytically, using techniques from asymptotic perturbation theory, and through numerical simulations. The dispersion relation of the system, based on a three-layer model of a stratified shear flow, reveals various dynamical behaviours, including the existence of unsteady and steady envelope wave packets.Comment: 47 pages, 39 figures, accepted to Physics of Fluid

    Transcritical shallow-water flow past topography: finite-amplitude theory

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    We consider shallow-water flow past a broad bottom ridge, localized in the flow direction, using the framework of the forced SuGardner (SG) system of equations, with a primary focus on the transcritical regime when the Froude number of the oncoming flow is close to unity. These equations are an asymptotic long-wave approximation of the full Euler system, obtained without a simultaneous expansion in the wave amplitude, and hence are expected to be superior to the usual weakly nonlinear Boussinesq-type models in reproducing the quantitative features of fully nonlinear shallow-water flows. A combination of the local transcritical hydraulic solution over the localized topography, which produces upstream and downstream hydraulic jumps, and unsteady undular bore solutions describing the resolution of these hydraulic jumps, is used to describe various flow regimes depending on the combination of the topography height and the Froude number. We take advantage of the recently developed modulation theory of SG undular bores to derive the main parameters of transcritical fully nonlinear shallow-water flow, such as the leading solitary wave amplitudes for the upstream and downstream undular bores, the speeds of the undular bores edges and the drag force. Our results confirm that most of the features of the previously developed description in the framework of the unidirectional forced Kortewegde Vries (KdV) model hold up qualitatively for finite amplitude waves, while the quantitative description can be obtained in the framework of the bidirectional forced SG system. Our analytic solutions agree with numerical simulations of the forced SG equations within the range of applicability of these equations

    Transformation of a shoaling undular bore

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    We consider the propagation of a shallow-water undular bore over a gentle monotonic bottom slope connecting two regions of constant depth, in the framework of the variable-coefficient Korteweg-de Vries equation. We show that, when the undular bore advances in the direction of decreasing depth, its interaction with the slowly varying topography results, apart from an adiabatic deformation of the bore itself, in the generation of a sequence of isolated solitons - an expanding large-amplitude modulated solitary wavetrain propagating ahead of the bore. Using nonlinear modulation theory we construct an asymptotic solution describing the formation and evolution of this solitary wavetrain. Our analytical solution is supported by direct numerical simulations. The presented analysis can be extended to other systems describing the propagation of undular bores (dispersive shock waves) in weakly non-uniform environments

    Evolution of solitary waves and undular bores in shallow-water flows over a gradual slope with bottom friction

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    This paper considers the propagation of shallow-water solitary and nonlinear periodic waves over a gradual slope with bottom friction in the framework of a variable-coefficient Korteweg-de Vries equation. We use the Whitham averaging method, using a recent development of this theory for perturbed integrable equations. This general approach enables us not only to improve known results on the adiabatic evolution of isolated solitary waves and periodic wave trains in the presence of variable topography and bottom friction, modelled by the Chezy law, but also, importantly, to study the effects of these factors on the propagation of undular bores, which are essentially unsteady in the system under consideration. In particular, it is shown that the combined action of variable topography and bottom friction generally imposes certain global restrictions on the undular bore propagation so that the evolution of the leading solitary wave can be substantially different from that of an isolated solitary wave with the same initial amplitude. This non-local effect is due to nonlinear wave interactions within the undular bore and can lead to an additional solitary wave amplitude growth, which cannot be predicted in the framework of the traditional adiabatic approach to the propagation of solitary waves in slowly varying media

    Wave Breaking and the Generation of Undular Bores in an Integrable Shallow Water System

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    The generation of an undular bore in the vicinity of a wave‐breaking point is considered for the integrable Kaup–Boussinesq (KB) shallow water system. In the framework of the Whitham modulation theory, an analytic solution of the Gurevich–Pitaevskii type of problem for a generic “cubic” breaking regime is obtained using a generalized hodograph transform, and a further reduction to a linear Euler–Poisson equation. The motion of the undular bore edges is investigated in detail

    Internal solitary wave generation by tidal flow over topography

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    Author Posting. © The Author(s), 2017. This is the author's version of the work. It is posted here under a nonexclusive, irrevocable, paid-up, worldwide license granted to WHOI. It is made available for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Fluid Mechanics 839 (2018): 387-407, doi:10.1017/jfm.2018.21.Oceanic internal solitary waves are typically generated by barotropic tidal flow over localised topography. Wave generation can be characterised by the Froude number F = U/c(0), where U is the tidal flow amplitude and c(0) is the intrinsic linear long wave phase speed, that is the speed in the absence of the tidal current. For steady tidal flow in the resonant regime, Delta(m) Delta(M) the tidal flow goes through the resonant regime twice, producing undular bores with each passage. The numerical simulations are for both symmetrical topography, and for asymmetric topography representative of Stellwagen Bank and Knight Inlet.RG was supported by the Leverhulme Trust through the award of a Leverhulme Emeritus Fellowship. KH was supported by grant N00014-11-1-0701 from the Office of Naval Research

    Extreme interfacial waves

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    Numerical solutions are presented for large-amplitude interfacial waves of extreme form on the interface between two fluids of different densities in the Boussinesq approximation. The flow in the lower fluid is irrotational, but the upper fluid may have constant, nonzero vorticity. Only symmetric waves are calculated. The results suggest limiting wave profiles for which separate portions of the interface touch, forming stagnant zones of one fluid imbedded in the other fluid

    Nonlinear interfacial progressive waves near a boundary in a Boussinesq fluid

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    The behavior of nonlinear progressive waves at the interface between two inviscid fluids in the presence of an upper free boundary is studied as a model of waves on the thermocline. A set of relationships between the integral properties of bounded waves in a general two-fluid model is first developed and the Stokes expansion to third order is derived. The exact free boundary problem for the wave profile is then formulated within the Boussinesq approximation as a nonlinear integral equation, which is solved numerically using two different numerical methods. For finite velocity difference across the two-fluid interface bifurcation of solutions into upper and lower branch wave profiles with quite different properties is obtained. Numerically calculated wave shapes and integral properties show good agreement with third-order Stokes expansion predictions in the weakly nonlinear regime for waves which are not too long. Very long waves were found to exhibit distinct solitary wave-like features
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